Eat and Sleep
One hotel called al-Haramin, which is reportedly bad but cheap.
There are a couple of basic restaurants around town. Street food can be bought in the suuq.
Esna has good connections with other towns and cities, with either bus or shared taxi. The local police may however object to you using these means of transportation, and call on you to travel by train.
The train station is located across the Nile, and suffers from few connections in either northern or southern direction. Fast trains may just pass, and you could be ending up in a really slow local train.
40 km south: Esna
100 km south: Kom Ombo
140 km south: Aswan